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Leisure time and food memory an anthropological approach to culinary tourism in central Mexico
THOME-ORTIZ, HUMBERTO y MOCTEZUMA PEREZ, SERGIO.
Folia Turística, vol. 37, núm. 1, 2015, pp. 69-84.
  ARK: https://n2t.net/ark:/13683/ptuO/H6S
Resumen
The study of the link between food and tourism as a local development strategy and as a mechanism to reproduce heritage has paid special attention to the territorial origins of food [Bessière 1998; Bessière 2013; Cohen and Avieli 2004; Avieli 2013; Siti et al. 2014]. While food is a strong marker of territory, and of particular interest for tourist activity, this process of identification is not inherent to the food itself, but rather to the ability of individuals and social groups to forge links with it through food memory. This paper addresses the case of traditional barbacoa from Texcoco, a product tied to the territory that denotes a solid presence in the food memory of central Mexico. This is confirmed by the established urban-rural relationship that includes generations of consumers and producers associated with this dish. Mexico City is one of the four largest cities in the world, with over 20 million inhabitants. Its strong integration with global markets has greatly influenced the transformation of its cultural patterns and lifestyles [Ward 1998]. One such change is the transformation of food patterns, consisting of a notable rise in the consumption of industrialized food [García and Bermudez 2014].
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